The latest instalments have been; a new kitchen with sink built into the worktop, a shower cubical with changing area, coat rack and boot area, fuel bund with dispensary taps, and an external home for the generator (with chimney for the fumes). Last night we even put up a dining table, found a few old plates and I made us beans on toast … who could ask for more!

Even with all these luxurious home comforts we have surrounded ourselves with, life isn’t quite like being at home, there is always a longer process involved in receiving the end goods. The shower for example. If you decide you want to have a shower you must first collect a bucket of snow, leave it by the heater for several hours to melt, then fill the bag with nozzle attachment with the water and put it up on the top shelf over the shower, then leave for several more hours for the water to warm in plastic bag. We purposely built the shower right next to the heater hoping sufficient hot air would rise to the roof of the porta cabin and heat the water sufficiently to take the Arctic chill off it. Tarka is about to try the first shower this evening so we will see…! Another example, Charlie pointed out to me the other day as he came in laughing at the randomness of cold weather living, was when he could hear sawing and wondered in to see what I was creating next, only to find that was in fact sawing away with the large wood saw, but what I was desperately trying to cut through was the weeks rashen of cheese!

I even managed a short run this morning up and down the runway, my poor lungs were the only thing to suffer, with every freezing inhalation causing a deep burning pain. Couple more days and I am sure they will have got the gist.

We are working on the video of camp but having a few technical issues…will keep trying.

With all expeditions or adventures, things are for ever changing and plans are never set in stone. The operations team in London decided due to a change in circumstances for the next month our ‘Floating Support Base’ will in fact be far more useful at Isachsen. As we have mentioned before Isachsen is on the northerly coast of Canada, and although I can see the sea ice from our camp we are in fact on land and therefore not ‘floating’.  In 3 to 4 weeks we will be moving out onto the ice at about 85º north, but for now we are taking in a different landscape equally as beautiful and just waiting to be explored. The exciting part of being based at Isachsen is our new home. We have temporally discarded the tent and have spent the past 3 days, working right around the clock creating an a truly palatial arctic dwelling in some of the old porter cabins left over from the research station based up here in the 60’s and 70’s. Many of the cabins have been heavily snow damaged, filled to their roofs from spin drift. However, after digging for 2 hours to clear a route to the medical hut we were overjoyed to find that the door and windows had remained tightly shut all these years and it was almost as good as new. The space is perfect for our living quarters but the boys wanted to have an additional cabin to store our food and barrels in. So feeling thoroughly over ambitious we set about digging out the porter cabin opposite to the medical hut, which unfortunately had not had its door closed for all these years and had a hefty amount of snow and ice inside for us to remove. Due to it being open to the elements it was very cold and damp inside, so to get the heat from our heater in to dry it all out, Tark’s and Charlie set about making a sealed tunnel/walk way between the 2 porter cabins with a door for entry!! All made out of bits and pieces, and using tools, we could find and dig out of the snow up here at the top of the world! Well the boy’s have excelled themselves, amazingly it doesn’t look half bad (from afar) and will do the job just nicely. It will take a day or so for some of the heat to filter into the second porter cabin and evaporate all the ice and damp, but when it does we will be in the height of arctic luxury. Talking of luxury, we have even dug out a porter loo to save our bums from the elements, although there was something special about our original ig-‘loo’ (…will have to make another when we move out onto the ice in a few weeks.)

In addition to our fab new home we have been graced for the past 3 days with absolutely stunning weather, you couldn’t have it better, perfect blue skies, not a breath of wind, 14 hours of sunshine and a mild -24ºC. One more day of DIY and we will be able to explore the mountains. We will post a video of our DIY in a couple of days.

Oh and the heater…what a beast!

Clearing out the last bit of snow – it was up to the top of the door!

The second reason was medically more concerning. Unlike PAM we are not man hauling large sledges during the day and so keeping warm became a real issue. Unfortunately in order to stop ourselves getting cold weather injuries and keep the fundamental communication lines open we had to light our cookers. These in turn gave off relatively large amounts of fumes and so we were forced to keep them on for very short periods punctuated by walks around camp to get fresh air and stay warm. We had a very serious discussion to try and ascertain whether we could hold out safely until the first resupply was due in about a week. Unfortunately despite our original evaluation it quickly became apparent that in order to prevent the situation deteriorating into an emergency and not only causing further risk to ourselves but also to PAM it was decided that we should get off the ice.

7 days after we had  waved good buy to the guys in the twin otter they were back again to pick us up. They even had a doctor on board to check us over on the way back to Resolute. Truth be told it was such a relaxing sensation to be back in the warmth of the plane that we pretty much fell straight to sleep and slept all the way back. Once we landed we were all rushed to the medical clinic and checked over thoroughly. Preliminary tests suggest we are all well and we have to go back in a few days once they have the blood sample back to get the all clear. So we are going to spend the next few days collecting ourselves, cleaning all the soot off our equipment and getting a new heating system and tent before hopefully heading back out later on in the week. Apart from the kerosene heaters making life a misery I actually feel a little sad that we had to leave this camp as it was becoming quite homely.

After only 3 days, the inside lining of the dorm tent, resembled a working coal mine and so has now been abandoned and packed away. This has resulted in all of daily life being contained in just the one mess tent, which is buy no means big enough. We therefore have to remove all our day kit out to face the elements in the evening, and bring in our frozen sleeping kit.

The kerosene heater in the mess tent has also started pluming out fumes and soot, albeit at a slightly slower rate, and so we have reduced to having it on to just at meal times. Even within that 30 minute period of having it on everything gets covered in black, making life a very cold, dirty, toxic and miserable! To put it into perspective Charlie, captain of our FSB ship, is an ex Royal Marine and has spent the last 10 seasons in either the Arctic or Antarctic, and is highly experienced in miserable living conditions and right now he says he wouldn’t even send his worst enemy up here as it is now.

The re-supply due in 11 days time will hopefully bring us a better and safe form of heating and hopefully some fabric to make a second skin for the large space station tent, allowing us to discard this ever darkening mess tent also. Currently the space station with its single walled skin and being 3 times the size of these canvas tents would provide absolutely no insulation and so it can currently be used for nothing other than storage. Which leaves the only option for the next 11 days nothing short of just survival.

It is currently well below -40ºC outside (current thermometer does not cope with below -40ºC, will hopefully get a better one at first re-supply) and -20ºC inside and hence why I am enduring the pain of frozen feet (a mixed sensation of no feeling at all with the excruciating return of blood flow) as i write this. Although I am only really putting off the most dreaded task, getting into a frozen sleeping bag only to count down the grim unpleasant hours of the night until morning allows us to walk around again and warm up a degree or 2. I am relieved to say that in this instance I am not suffering on my own and Tark’s and Charlie have also lost their sense of humour!!

The one thing that 2 days ago had left me feeling slightly excited, was the knowledge that with all the billions of people living all of the world, we are currently in the most northerly home in the world! However right now the excitement of such a fact has faded.

As for the Ice Team, we know very little on their progress, other than the small bar of ‘Hotel Chocolate’ I bought Pen for his birthday, thinking I was being very thoughtful and organised to plan for such things back in England, has today caused him to chip his tooth…opps!!

I’ve lost track of time up here and all the days seem to blend into one. Yesterday though I got excited for the first time as Chip (the expeditions operations manager) and I flew from Resolute Bay up to Isachsen to drop a fuel cache. The small plane (Twin Otter) that will drop us out on the ice later on the week can’t carry enough fuel on board to go from Resolute Bay to our drop off point on the ice and back again. Consequently we have had to put a makeshift refuelling station about half way. I say about half way because its very difficult to know exactly were we will be put down. Obviously the sea ice is slightly temperamental and so it will be a case of finding a landing strip suitable to put the plane down on in amongst the chaos. Apart from the convenience of being about half way, Isachsen was chosen because between the 1940’s and the 1970’s there was a research facility up there and they built a runway to get all the kit in or out. It was a very surreal experience, with no pun intended the entire station was quite literally frozen in time. After some fast and furious digging we managed to unearth the door to one of the facilities and when we got inside everything was exactly as it was the last time people were there. All the food was still neatly stacked on the shelves, the beds were made, the pens and pads were on the desks and there was even a leg of lamb in the fridge!

In any case the flight was a welcome break from the never ending mountains of kit we are preparing and testing. Why, so

close to departure, are the team still testing equipment you might be asking! Well the answers are simple. The first reason in neither exciting or surprising, it’s money!!! To cut a long story short expeditions don’t run on thin air and for some reason (still unbeknown to me) sponsors always seem to wait until the 11th hour before joining or committing to expeditions. As a consequence buying equipment is left until the 12th hour and with heavy time constraints you often can’t get the exact piece of kit you want and have to modify a similar item to make do. The second reason IS exciting, well it is to me at least, and that is science. Originally expeditions were all bout science and discovery. As technology and knowledge have evolved at an exponential rate over the past century, discovery and scientific endeavours have made way for personal expeditions. Not that their is anything wrong with these trips but a significant void has opened up between expeditionists and scientists. Many believing that our advancements in technology such as satellites have made the relationship superfluous. The truth of the matter being that there is and always will be a close symbiotic relationship between the two. The only problem being that we are no longer simply charting and mapping new areas (or rarely in any case), in order to produce a significant and worthwhile set of data we have to go the extra mile. As such a considerable amount of the equipment that is being used on this trip is firmly in the prototype stages and has been specifically designed for this trip.

Well I think that’s probably enough about my opinions on expeditions and science. Tomorrow we are collecting the final pieces of our kit and all things being equal and pending good weather we are currently looking at a Saturday drop off.

Oh I almost forgot, for some reason the newsletter is not working so I apologies to those who have subscribed and I will try and fix that as soon as possible. The good news is that our widget was accepted by Yahoo and you can now download it on the right. Just click on it and it will do the rest for you. At the moment it acts a bit like an RSS feed and will update automatically every time we update the website. Hopefully I will get it to run all the videos at images soon as well. Any feed back about it is much appreciated!

Freight has now finally arrived, well some of it, so we are at last back up to full steam ahead in the art of list making, sorting, re-packing, sewing on sponsor badges, dividing daily food rations…etc etc. In saying that, i was actually in bed with flu the day all the kit arrived and missed out on the process of lugging a couple of tonnes of kit back from the airport late at night in miserably cold conditions. Now I am sure some of you cynics out there would probably think i had planned it that way! I however, am just incredibly grateful that i was able to feel like death whilst in the warmth of a hotel bed next to an on-suite bathroom and NOT on the ice at -50ºC.

With only a few days to go before we get flown out onto the ice I should probably be telling you about all things Arctic. However I’m sure you’ll be hearing about enough Arctic and cold weather related stories over the next few months to fill a lifetime so instead I will tell you about South Camp! South Camp Inn is the name of the place we are staying at right now. Not only does it consist of the most eclectic amalgamation of décor and styles but it also happens to be run by a fantastically colourful team. The whole place is run and owned by Ozzie, an entrepreneurial business man from Tanzania of all places. Quite how a Tanzanian business man ended up right up here in the high Arctic is anybodies guess, but he has done, and very successfully at that. Over the years passing expeditions to the North pole have left kit here and Ozzie has accumulated a veritable Aladdin’s cave of goodies. No matter what you might need you can guaranty that it will be hidden in the back of one of the rooms. The other long standing member of South Camp is Randy… an accomplished chef from Bermuda!!! I wont even begin to try and explain how he ended up here but the long and the short is that I am very grateful he has as i have now found his muffins are equally exquisite as his chocolate brownies . There is also a fantastic amount of space, so we have been able to spread all our kit out and organise it into the various drop-offs and categories that we will need on the ice. For all its diversity and good points I heed a word of caution to all who will venture up here in years to come… BEWARE OF THE STATIC! It is quite unbelievable but a combination of aggravating factors has made this building a living Van de Graaff generator! On average you can take about 10 to 15 steps before you have generated enough static to give yourself a shock. We are not 100% sure on whether the building is earthed and to add a little spice and variety to your day all the metallic objects are covered in a tiny coating of paint, enough to disguise it so that you unsuspectingly brush past it, but an insufficient amount to insulate it. A few days ago I managed to walk almost the whole length of South Camp without coming into contact with any metal and when I reached for Ian’s door handle the shock was so intense it felt like the spark from my finger momentarily lit up the dark corridor. I have now taken to running my hand down the walls and deliberately touching as many door handles as possible as I travel around camp to avoid any significant build up.

One of the biggest problems out in the high Arctic (And I’m sure most of you know this) is communications!!! Not only does the cold bring everything to a grinding halt but our sole communication uplink is via a satellite system called iridium. Whilst people have managed to send back videos from the Arctic before during expeditions, it is an incredibly difficult , time consuming and tricky job. For those of you who are lucky enough to remember internet when it was in its infancy and we all had standard dial up connections (52kb/s), it took the best part of 10mins to get up the most basic website and video was inconceivable. Well our connection on a good day is about 5 times slower!!! Thankfully we are in a unique position in that the expedition is relatively static and we are not limited by time and weight. We will be doing our absolute best to send back regular videos for you through out the trip to show you what life is really like out on the Arctic ocean. However you will have to bare in mind that despite the fact that we are filming the whole trip on a broadcast camera the footage we will be posting on the site will be quite low quality. Hope you enjoy the videos and please be patient during our first few weeks as we iron out our teething problems that we will inevitably have.

Charlie Paton and I arrived last night to a pleasant -47, whilst the Ice Team, Pen Hadow, Martin Hartley and Ann Daniels have stayed on in Ottowa, along with Ian Wesley (kit boy) and Tarka. They are staying down a few extra days for some scheduled press conferences and have collared Tarks as their french speaking translator.

We will spend the next week here in Resolute sorting and preparing kit,  going through weather reading and prediction, working with the pilots to understand exactly what they require from the runways we must build and maintain and finally repeat training exercises such as falling through the sea ice and polar bear safety.

The Inuit town of Resolute is little more than the size of a hamlet back home in the UK, maybe a small village at a push, with a population of approximately 230 people, the facilities of a school, small supermarket, hotel and its lifeline - the airport!

We are still waiting for the freight to arrive, so for now I am furiously working away at eating all Randy (the cook) can throw at me…his chocolate brownies are amazing!!