We have had brilliant press coverage since our return, which amazingly is still coming! Our first film ‘The Great Walk of China’ was shown at the Dijon International Film Festival last month and will be showing at Dundee Mountain Film Festival next week and Autrans Mountain Film Festival the week after that. We will both be speaking at Kendal Mountain Festival this Friday about the Rivers of Ice expedition for the very time, at 11.30 in the Parish Hall.

For anyone who hadn’t been following the Rivers of Ice expedition there is a very brief summary below;

From the Jorge Montt glacier we made great progress across the ice cap for 25 days. We successfully traversed one of the world´s harshest environments before reaching the most notorious section of the journey two-thirds of the way in. Tent-bound for 5 days in winds of up to 60 knots, we waited for a suitable weather window: we knew the next technically demanding section could not be attempted without good visibility. At this point, the tent suffered a critical failure leaving us to erect a survival shelter as quickly as possible from what remained of the tent.

Despite having multiple exit strategies along the ice cap none were in range without a fully functioning tent. So despite being aware of the difficulty of descending the Spegazzini glacier, we calculated that it offered the best chance ofsurvival due to its close proximity. In total, we spent 5 nights in makeshift shelters as we slowly negotiated the descent from the ice cap via the glacier in storm conditions. We had hoped to leave as we had arrived, by boat, however the unstable nature of the glacier mouth made it unsafe for a boat to collect us. Subsequently, the El Calafelet 42 division of the Argentinian Gendarmarie were called to provide a safe pick up by helicopter. We spent one night in hospital as a precautionary measure and were discharged with mild frostbite to the toes and snow blindness.

Alhough we did not accomplish our ultimate objective of a full crossing, we did successfully achieve the longest crossing of the Southern Patagonian Ice by a British team as well as the longest ever crossing by a woman. We still believe our fast and light approach is an effective way to complete a full unsupported crossing and will be heading back next year for ‘take 2′.

We have finally launched our new expedition.

‘Rivers of Ice’ will depart on the 16^th of August in an attempt to traverse the complete length of the Southern Patagonian Ice Cap with out the aid of sail kites or pre-placed food caches.

The fully unsupported journey will see us kayak, ski and climb 554km across the world’s third largest ice cap in as little as 37 days. Traditionally expeditions across the ice cap have been undertaken with the aid of pulks (sledges) ensuring the ability to carry sufficient supplies for long crossings. However, this makes for an arduous and laborious task having to shuttle loads across the heavily crevassed sections. In contrast we have taken an ultra light and fast approach, undertaking the journey with only backpacks and 1kg micro sleds that attach to the packs. Having reduced the equipment from over 120kg (traditional amount taken on previous attempts of this journey) to 45kg each, we are mobile enough to move fast over the difficult terrain. However, with only 37 days of food rations, we cannot afford any mistakes or delays!

The new ‘Rivers of Ice’ expedition website is finally up and running. I would describe it as innovative and interactive, jam-packed with technical information about the journey and the ultra-light equipment being used to make it happen. Once the expedition gets underway we will send daily updates back to the site as podcasts, allowing for the facts and emotions – be they despair or elation – of the day’s events, to be shared. Between now and departure we will regularly be updating the new website with short videos of our physical preparation, as well as the kit, food and logistical preparations, giving an insight into the pre-expedition work load.

So until mid October it is good buy from the Primal Journey news page but we hope to see you over at www.rivers-of-ice.com

and 1kg micro sleds that attach to the packs.

With it being low season on the mountain and Katie picking an exceptionally beautiful and less frequently used route we have not, until now, seen a single other person on our entire journey. Yesterday evening we were joined at camp by another team compromised primarily of French people. Sebastien turned out to be a water purification engineer in Dar Es Salaam and I have arranged to try and meet up with him as I cycle through.

This morning we left camp at 07:15 just in time to see the other team emerge from their tents, only to be overtaken 2 hours later as they came almost running past us. It was no real surprise given their excessive speed that when we finally arrived at Kibo Hut they were all tent bound with splitting headaches! Unfortunately Sadie has lost her appetite this evening and has a bad headache, not a good sign considering we are making our summit attempt in a few hours! We are due to get up at 23:00 this evening and walk through the night so we have had an early dinner and we are trying to get a few hours rest before the walk.

Day 5

After a few measly hours dozing we woke up at 23:00 to find the landscape blanketed white with a thick carpet of snow. It was still snowing heavily at 23:30 as we set out after our cup of hot sugary tea and a few biscuits. Sadie’s headache has got considerably worse and after 40mins of walking she informed me that she had vomited prior to departure. She insisted on carrying on for a short while but at 5200m she began suffering from ataxia and extreme fatigue. If your read any high altitude medical book the primary symptoms of AMS are usually described as:

Headache, Loss of appetite, Extreme fatigue and Ataxia

It was very sad that she had to turn back but given her condition she made an excellent decision to turn back and in my opinion it takes a very strong person to accept the situation and make the right decision. Gerrit, John and I continued on after Sadie and Antonio (Our latest addition to the team and assistant guide) returned to BC and by 06:00 we had reached Gilmonds Point marking the end of the steep climb. After watching a spectacular sunrise we continued along the crater rim to reach Uhuru Peak (I believe this is loosely translated as Freedom Peak from Swahili) at 07:30. After a succession of photos and some filming I called Katie to let her now we had safely reached the top before turning round and heading back down. As is always the case with mountains the elation of reaching the summit if quickly overcast by the fact that you are only half way and you still have to get back down.

On the way down I spotted a man staggering around and after a short discussion with him it was blindingly evident that he was in no fit state to be were he was. It turned out that his guide was incredibly inexperienced and believed that people were paying him to take them to the summit no matter what. We finally arrived back to camp at 11:15 after almost 12 hours of walking and found Sadie curled up in her tent feeling very despondent but safe. I has also very relieved when the man whom I had spotted staggering around poked his head through the tent door to thank me. We had a few hours rest and a big hearty lunch before packing up camp and heading down the mountain again.

I have had a fantastic time on the mountain, and having spotted a few other additional challenges that the mountain holds, I am excited about the prospect of coming back with Katie. Kilimanjaro is one of the few extraordinarily beautiful places that is at the same time a great challenge, but also achievable for anybody (from a physical point of view). Whether you are looking for a first time challenge or the next one on the list then it is well worth the time. The only advice that I can give you is to pick your guide and company wisely!!! Easier said than done I know, but a good guide will make your trip whilst a bad one will not only break your trip but may put you at considerable risk at the same time.

Well Herbert is quietly calling me again and my journey must continue. I had almost forgotten that this climb was a break from the exhaustion of cycling. I will take a day to get back to Arusha now and sort out my equipment before getting back in the saddle and heading off on the road once again.

Day 1

We met John (our Guide) in Arusha and after a succession of stops between there and the mountain we slowly accumulated all the members of our team. I think it was very much a case of picking up friends and colleagues with whom he has worked before. Once the Land Rover was uncomfortably overloaded (11 people in a car designed for 7) we merrily made our way to the main Kilimanjaro National Park entrance to sign in before heading to our star point. I wish I could say that this was all as smooth as the guide book in the pouch on the back of the seat in front described it:

‘The Rongai Route:

On the first day clients usually sign in at the main gate between 8 and 10 in the morning before continuing along the scenic route around the mountain to the Rongai Forest were the trek begins. Beginning shortly after lunch there is a short leisurely walk through the pine forests to first camp.’

If I had to write a description for a guide book based on our experience it would go something a little like this:

‘The Rongai Route:

On the first day you will be due to be picked up at 08:00am but all things being African, it will be closer to 08:45am. After a little delay at the main office, the journey to the main national park gates will take approximately 3 hours (allowing an extra hour for detours). After signing in the real adventure begins… You will spend almost 6 hours digging out various vehicles (including your own) from mud up to your knees in the poring rain (Incidentally Alex, our driver, was an exceptionally good driver). Arriving a few minutes before sun set means you will delay the short walk through the pine forest until the following day.’

Despite the slightly unorthodox procedures it was actually remarkably enjoyable. Our team is a fantastically eclectic mix of characters each with a slightly quirky twist to their story. In any case we get on very well with everybody. Having had to camp at the base of the route means we are camping at 1950m.

Day 2

Provisions are very tight as the logistics was carefully (or possibly not) choreographed so that we have the right number of porters and food to last us the 6 days we will be on the mountain. In light of this we have to make up the ground that we lost yesterday and have to walk all the way through to camp 2. The walk is only around 12km but we need to climb from 1950m to 3500m, so we will spend most of the day walking very very slowly, or as the locals say ‘poly poly’. As you would imagine the scenery made a dramatic change as we ascended, going through the pine forest we were meant to do yesterday, before crossing into the indigenous tropical forest, then in into the shrub land and finally into a relatively sparse grassland.

The team of cooks have managed to produce some pretty spectacular meals given the rudimentary utensils and equipment they have. For breakfast every morning they are proving us with porridge, fresh fruit, sausages, eggs and vegetable omelet. For lunch we get a small goody bag with all sorts in it and in the evening we get another fully garnished meal including soup, chips, vegetable stew, meat and a fruit salad for desert. The walking was relatively easy going and we took regular breaks filled mostly with a lot of drinking. For those of you unfamiliar with altitude one of the most important things to remember is to stay hydrated. I’m glad to say that the temperature has also dropped sufficiently and I slept like a baby (The first time since I was at 4200m with Katie back in Ethiopia).

Day 3

The other great rule of altitude is ‘get used to doing nothing!’ 90% of all your time at altitude is spent doing absolutely nothing. To be more specific you are actually acclimatising but in order to do that efficiently, you need to do as little physical excursion as possible. In a bid to keep to this theory we have covered an enormous 4km today and since arriving at 4200m we are sitting around in our tents doing very little. I have spent much of the morning filming and typing up this post, whilst Sadie and Gerrit are doing… errr not entirely sure but they are in their tent.

Every morning the weather is absolutely beautiful with crystal clear skies as we look out over the top of the clouds covering the Amboseli National Park down below. I try to do as much filming as possible at this time of day because by mid morning the clouds start to role in and a thick fog prevents you from seeing very much. In fact yesterday afternoon we heard a light aircraft flying incredibly close to us and this morning we heard via phone that it was on the news that a light aircraft carrying 4 passengers crashed into Kilimanjaro at about 16:00 yesterday afternoon because of the cloud.

We are due to make our summit attempt tomorrow night and I’ll write a short post from the top.

“Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty, well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming WOW, WHAT A RIDE!!!”

I’m obviously hoping that the grave is still many many years away, but if I can arrive in this style I will feel accomplished.

This week our small home (The Chicken Shed) has been turned upside down, and every bit of floor space has been covered in kit ready for Africa. We have been busily working out what we have, what we need, and what we can make … we like homemade gear … it makes Tarka’s time at university studying engineering seem slightly worth while, and strangely he is a whiz with a sewing machine!

The kit list for the two of us (have a look below), is considerably shorter than that of anybody else’s we can find (e.g. World Biking). There are three main reasons why we have opted for one set of clothes and little else other than our camera gear. Firstly, as we are not taking our own bikes, we are unable to predict what we will need for repairs and maintenance. There is no point taking out spare inner tubes if you don’t know what size wheel your bike has! Secondly, in light of the fact that we will have no gears, we are going to be struggling up hill as it is, so light is good! And thirdly… because we like it that way, it adds to the adventure.

I’m taking ‘two’ luxury items with me, (supposed to be limited to one as is decreed by the Primal Journey ‘golden handbook’!!!) although one of them I would consider a necessity. It’s only Tark’s that harps on about it being a luxury, and that is my face cream. I’m taking with me a never ending supply of natural skincare, handmade by my good friend at Pink Leaf, no chemicals just pure goodness. My second luxury item is a miniature pack of playing cards, I have taken them to every country I have ever visited, and they have been a godsend on many occasions. Whether whiling down the hours waiting for a flight or sitting on a desert road in a remote part of Namibia hoping for a car to pass and give us a lift! As for Tarka I’m not sure he has a luxury item yet, I think he’s to excited about getting away from this endless rain!!

Bikes
• See what we can find when we get there!

Bike Accessories and Repair Kit
• 2 x Rear Carriers
• 2 x 10L handle bar bags
• 2 x Homemade triangle bags for bike frame
• Multi-purpose bicycle tool, with spoke key, chain breaker and levers
• Pump
• Inner tube repair kit – glue and patches
• 4 x cycle water bottles
• 4 x water bottle cages
• 1 x cycle computer to measure distance

Kit
• 1 x Mountain Equipment Tunnel tent
• 2 x Mountain Equipment Xero sleeping bags
• 2 x Mountain Equipment sleeping mats
• 2 x head torches
• First aid kit
• Assorted toiletries
• Mountain Equipment Dry bags
• Repair kit containing, Leatherman, cable ties, duck tape, super glue etc
• 2 x Diaries and pen

Clothing
• 2 x trainers
• 4 x Mountain Equipment t-shirts (2 each)
• 2 x waterproof/windproof cycling jackets
• 2 x cycling shorts
• 2 x Mountain Equipment trousers
• 4 x socks and pants (2 sets each)
• 2 x cycling helmets
• 2 x sunglasses
• 2 x cycling gloves
• 2 x swimmers

Electronics and Camera equipment
• Sony A1 HDV video camera
• Sennheiser radio mic
• 2 x Canon 350D SLR’s (lenses: EF 70 – 200mm F/4.0L USM & EFS17-85mm F/4.0-5.6 USM)
• IPAQ PDA
• GPS
• E-Sun 12W solar panel
• Mobile phone
• Gorilla pod
• Spare AA batteries

I’ve been secretly planning ‘One World’ for as long as I can remember, certainly for the past 7 years. However when I started having the idea I had neither the skill nor the understanding (not to mention the means) to even contemplate launching into such an adventure. I wouldn’t go as far as to say that every single trip I have done henceforth has been specifically as a training exercise for ‘One World’, but I would say that every trip has developed my knowledge and understanding to a level whereby I am now capable of organising and undertaking such a journey. Well actually let it be known that Katie is in fact the queen of research and organisation. She is the undisputed master of the white board, the sticky post-it note and the list!!! Over the past couple of years she has helped seal up the cracks in the project and we now have a fully watertight and floating vessel, a crew, a destination and all we need now is for someone to help pay for the fuel!

The project itself is pretty simple in its concept… to go from the North Pole (geographic) to the South Pole (again geographic) using exclusively human power. It’s a 30,000km, 3 year journey where Katie and I will man-haul (that’s walking/skiing across the Polar Regions pulling a sledge with all your kit in it), ocean row and cycle our way around the world. In fact this video will probably give you a better idea of what we are trying to accomplish.

Why go only from the North Pole to the South Pole and not right the way round? A question I have been asked almost as many times as: Why? Well the latter I’m not going to answer just now, not least because if you think about it and I mean really think about it and you still need to ask the question, the chances are you won’t understand the answer. On the other hand the answer to the first question is easy, money! Some people are either born with, or develop a gift for being able to raise sponsorship money. Unfortunate I’m not one of those people yet and as it stands we can’t find anybody willing to invest the funding for a 6 year expedition.

We know of a number of similar projects that people have either already completed or are in the midst of being organised but to our knowledge nobody has ever accomplished or even attempted this journey. If you know of any we would love to hear about them and by the same token if you want to know more about our project feel free to drop us a line.

Tarka