Ok this will be the last post from me for a while, as Tarka’s daily adventures with Herbert are far more exciting than my DVD fest on the sofa as I rest and recuperate, but I thought I would just sum up my month in Africa.
In refection, looking back at the posts we have written over the last month, I think we were maybe holding back, writing only the positive elements of our journey in a bid to not come across as if we were moaning! We are after all doing these things by choice and are very fortunate to be able to do so.
So I will now elaborate slightly. In addition to the incredible beauty of the countries we past through and the friendliness and warmth of the people who befriended us, there was also a relentless hassle for money. This is partially to be expected and completely understandable. However from the moment we woke until the moment we went to sleep there would not be a single minute when the asking for money would ease. Which really takes away any enjoyment we would get out of each day. What irritated me most however, and where I had real sense of humour failure, was the ‘forced service’! Day in day out when we were doing menial daily tasks, such as pumping up Flashdance’s tyres, a local would come along and snatch the pump from my hand and would refuse to give it back despite me telling them that I was more than capable of pumping up my own tyre (even when I tried to forcefully take it back, I failed). He would pump up the tyre on our behalf and then demand payment! The first few times you pay, as many of the locals had very little income and at least they were trying to do something for their money, as apposed to just out rightly asking for handouts! However, I reached the point where I could not stand people taking or even touching my things without permission and trying to keep your cool was just exhausting! Even when we finally reached a place to stay at the end of a long day and we longed to shut the door for the first tiny bit of piece and quiet since 5am, we first had to pay off those stood in the doorway! …. as we experienced that they will stand there pleading far longer than my patience for need of sleep can last!!!
Despite my 5 previous visits to the continent, the above is something that I had never properly experienced, hence the ‘Tourist Bubble’! Mt first two visits were to South Africa, which although still has its problems, is a long way ahead of the rest of the continent and for that reason gives you a very different African encounter. I then in 2005, spent 4 months overlanding through Eastern and Southern Africa and it was an absolutely amazing experience. At the time I felt I was really ‘roughing it’ and experiencing the ‘real’ Africa, as my journey was a far cry from the luxury safari lodges and exquisite candlelight meals looking over a bustling water hole that we are tempted with on TV. It is only now that I realize how the overland truck only ever opened its doors when we arrived at a place designed to suite our needs as a tourist! Each campsite had a toilet block, shower block, bar, and western style food, and a large perimeter fence keeping real Africa at a distance!
For anyone who has not travelled to Africa and would like to in an enjoyable way as a holiday, then the ‘Tourist Bubble’ is there to provide you with such an experience. For outside the ‘bubble’ it is incredibly clear that “A foreign country is not designed to make YOU feel comfortable, it’s designed to make it’s own people feel comfortable!”
Despite the hassles and the dangers that cycling across Africa can present, I am gutted to be back home and would love to be back on the road with Tarka. Even on those days when you are pulling your hair out because you can’t communicate or people are trying to steal your possessions, it is when we are together, away on and adventure, that we feel most content with life!
Don’t you just love a cycling tan!!!
